Saturday, April 29, 2023

St. Thomas and St. John

In April 2023, we stayed 1 week at the Marriott Frenchman's Cove timeshare resort. We had a 2 bedroom villa on the 5th floor of the St. John building. We took the car ferry from St. Thomas to St. John on a Sunday and a Tuesday.

Restaurants

We ate at St. Thomas restaurants 5 different nights, and ate in at our villa the 2 nights when we went to St. John. 

Mim's Seaside Bistro

When you drive from Marriott Frenchman's Cove, Mim's is on the way to Red Hook. We would definitely eat here again. They have an extensive seafood menu and we were very happy with the food. The garden salad was really good, and entree Mediterranean Swordfish was excellent with capers and kalamata olives. Our Marriott Privileges discount card gave us a free rum punch drink.

Sunset Grille


This is also on the way to Red Hook, but much closer to Red Hook. It is at Secret Harbour beach, a beautiful but small beach with an excellent view of the sunset. The sun does set behind the islands, but you have a great view here. The food was excellent and we would definitely eat here again. The roasted beet salad was very good and for my entree, the Adobo Chicken was excellent. The best part was the Mud Pie dessert, which was very large and definitely should be shared.

Oceana Restaurant and Bistro



This is probably my favorite restaurant on St. Thomas. It is past the town (Charlotte Amalie) but not as far as the airport. It is in a beautiful building directly on the water, looking at Water Island and Hassel Island. It's a little tricky to get to down some very narrow one-way streets, but worth the adventure.

13 Restaurant

The restaurant called "13" is located in Yacht Haven Grande, which is a short drive from Marriott Frenchman's Cove (towards town). The menu here is pretty small and the food was okay. The restaurant is located with a view of the harbor and large yachts. We would probably not return here.

The view from 13 Restaurant

Old Stone Farmhouse


This is a really unique venue and very beautiful restaurant.  The service was excellent. However, the food was okay. It seemed overpriced and portions were small. We would not return here. It is a long drive, almost to Magens Bay beach, and you should be prepared to have your car valet parked which is free, but bring some cash for a tip anyways. It is open air restaurant, so bring bug spray. It was a little warm, as the windows are all open, but they are not large.

Beaches


Magens Bay - St. Thomas

This is a very large beach with lots of facilities and a good amount of parking. I would recommend researching how many cruise ships will be in St. Thomas and choose a day when none are in port. You can find this at this website. If you do go here and it is busy, you should walk as far as you can to the left and you can hopefully find space on the beach with less people.

Non-Residents pay $5 per person and $2 per car. I heard it is free if you arrive before 8 am.

We tried to snorkel but it was very murky. Very fun to watch the pelicans diving into the water, often mere yards from swimmers!

Honeymoon Beach - St. John

Honeymoon Beach is on the north shore and is closest to Cruz Bay and is a great beach for swimming and wading. We drove to Lind Point Road, just off of North Shore Road. There is labeled parking for people taking the trail down to Honeymoon Beach. The other way to get to Honeymoon is to drive to Caneel Bay and take a shuttle to the beach. We parked for free - see the red star on the map below and walked the Lower Lind Point Trail all the way down to the beach, about a 10-minute walk on some rough rocky terrain - good sandals or sneakers are recommended - not flip flops. 




The trail to the beach starts just behind this sign.

The beach is pretty good size, and has bathrooms and a shower and a few food and drink options. There are beach chairs for rent, and a few shade trees as well.  The snorkeling to the right (as if you were trying to get to Caneel Bay beach) was pretty good. The snorkeling was better to the left (by the rocky area between Salomon and Honeymoon beaches).

Salt Pond Bay Beach - St. John

We really like this remote beach on the east end of St. John (approximately 35-minute drive from Cruz Bay). There is a small parking lot (gravel) and parking on the road as well. You hike about 10 minutes down to the beach. There is a small toilet building just as you arrive at the beach.


There is excellent snorkeling here! The best was a long swim into the middle of the bay where there are a set of jagged rocks that break the surface past where boats are tied to mooring balls. We saw turtles, squid and lots of fish. You can also snorkel on the left and right sides of the bay, but we did not see very much. There are two hikes you can also do from this beach: Ram's Head Trail (longer hike, we did not hike, but heard it is hot and rocky and has great views) and Drunk Bay Trail (a short trail to the other side of the island past Salt Pond, maybe 1/4 mile, which we hiked in 2022).

The beach does not offer much shade and was very hot when we were there. We brought our own umbrella. There are small "hitch-hiker" burrs in the sand by the few trees, so be careful as they can stick to bottom of your feet!

Hansen Bay Beach - St. John

This is a private beach that has parking and the family who runs this accepts anything you want to pay in their donation box to support the maintenance of the facilities. This is on the East End part of St. John, and also pretty remote and far from Cruz Bay. The snorkeling to the left of the beach, by Pelican Rock was excellent. We saw an octopus, a huge turtle with 2 large remoras, as well as a small shark and lots of fish.

Secret Harbour Beach - St. Thomas

Secret Harbour - left side

This is a small beach and very calm, protected from waves and breezes. We came here 2 different days. There is a dive shop on the beach (Aqua Action Dive Center) where you can get information about snorkeling as well as rent snorkel gear and beach chairs and umbrellas, kayaks, and paddle boards. There is snorkeling on both the left and right sides of the beach. We really liked the right side, where you can snorkel pretty far out, going around the rocks that are exposed (see photo below):

Secret Harbour - right side


Frenchman's Cove Beach - St. Thomas

The beach is very small at the resort. There is a reef close to the beach that you cannot swim over so entry into the water is only near the pier.  


There is decent snorkeling on the left side of the pier and as you swim towards the further Westin pier. We snorkeled in the morning on a cloudy day and saw a few fish - we will try again on a sunny day.

Brewer's Bay Beach

We did not spend a lot of time at this beach, but wanted to see what it was like. It is a large beach and you can see the airplanes land because the airport is very close (you can see the beginning of the runway from the beach). There were students from the University of the Virgin Islands because the campus is next to the beach as well. The sand was a little more coarse than the other beaches on St. Thomas. We heard it is also a good place to watch the sunset. 

Above the beach, there is a road you can take up to the Reichhold Center of the Arts. From the parking lot you have a bird's eye view of the runway and beach.

Snorkel Boat Trip with Aqua Marine Dive Center

We did a 2 snorkel site afternoon adventure which we loved. It is supposed to be 4 hours for $85 per person (plus tax). There were only 6 people (3 were snorkeling and 3 were diving) and 4 staff on the boat. Their 43-foot dive boat was a comfortable ride to the first snorkel location located off of Little St. James Island.  The 2nd location was off of Cabrita Point and we saw a huge and colorful sea fan forest.  

We highly recommend snorkeling with Aqua Marine. We learned so much from Ericka, our guide. Of note was the male Sergeant Major fish guarding a mass of purple eggs and holding a sea anemone that stuck to my hand when I turned it upside down.

Grocery Stores

We went to 3 different grocery stores during our stay:
  • The Market - Located inland and the largest of the three. They had pretty good produce and the best prices of the three stores.
  • Food Center - This is convenient when coming back from Red Hook, since you pass right by it. It is almost as large as The Market, and about same prices.
  • Moe's Fresh Market - located very close to Red Hook ferry. This had more variety, and higher prices. The parking lot can be very busy and difficult to get in and out of. We stopped after getting off the ferry and it was very busy.

Car Ferry Options

There are 3 companies: Love City, Big Red Barge and Global Marine.  We liked Global Marine, because they have a place on the front of the boat to sit and enjoy the views. If you go on Big Red Barge, there is not a place to sit, so you either stay in your car or get out and walk around the car deck which is difficult because cars are parked so close together. When we were here in 2022, we took Love City and believe their ferries have outside viewing/seating that is up high, and not by the cars.

All three companies charge same price. You will pay much more for a one-way ticket, so you should look at schedule for return trip from St. John and pick a company that the times work the best for you.  When we went in April 2023, it was $65 round trip (and $50 one-way).

If the return ferry is the last one of the day for the company you have a return ticket for and it is full, you will need to buy a one-way ticket to return with a different company. We suggest getting to the car ferry dock at least 30 minutes before the ferry is scheduled to leave.

Our 2023 Itinerary

  • Saturday - Magen's Bay (no cruise ships)
  • Sunday - St. John - Honeymoon Beach
  • Monday - Aqua Marine Snorkel Trip - St. Thomas
  • Tuesday - St. John - Salt Pond Bay & Hansen Beach
  • Wednesday - Secret Harbour St. Thomas 
  • Thursday - Frenchman's Cove & Secret Harbour St. Thomas

Thursday, February 16, 2023

Updated Turks and Caicos, Providenciales

In fall of 2022 and January 2023 we stayed at The Sands. The Sands has a great location on Grace Bay. All beach amenities are included (umbrellas, palapas, sailboats, kayaks, paddle boards and snorkeling gear). The resort also has bikes and tennis court and rackets available for no charge, and is walking distance from several excellent restaurants. They have reasonable junior suites with kitchenette as well as 1 and 2 bedroom suites with full kitchens and laundry.



Restaurants


Coco Bistro

Beautiful venue and amazing food. Highly recommend and must make reservation before arriving on island. The blackened grouper is outstanding. The restaurant is outdoors amidst very large palm trees that are beautifully lit. On the same property is Coco Van which is very casual and seating is similar, with some picnic table and high table options. Food at Coco Van is excellent but served on paper and not as upscale as Coco Bistro. Coco Van has excellent fish tacos.

Coco Bistro

Da Conch Shack

This is a casual restaurant with great location on beach. Some of the tables are on deck and some are in sand. It can be windy here, and you can request a reservation on the deck which would be a little back from the beach, but still with a view. I would try to arrive before sunset. 

The restaurant is in an area called Blue Hills which is a little drive from Grace Bay hotels. Highly recommend ordering the "Pirates Pot" (for 2 people to share). And if ordering a side salad be sure to specify you would like it before your meal. Wednesday nights are their busy night, with entertainment.


Da Conch Shack

Bella Luna

Excellent Italian restaurant. We ate upstairs and the menu had lots of delicious looking options and the terrace upstairs has a treehouse feel. Next time we plan to try eating downstairs (outdoors). The menu downstairs looks like pizza and calzones and the vibe looks more casual.

Magnolia

View from Magnolia

The view from Magnolia is up high of Turtle Cove and a great place to see sunset. Service was slow and food was good.

Hemingways


Excellent location close to the beach and a delicious menu. We ate here for dinner and they have a great breakfast as well. Recommend making reservations for arrival before sunset. Hemingways is located on The Sands property.

Snorkeling


Coral Gardens

We were very happy with the variety of fish here. It is a busy and popular place, but if you swim around the orange buoys and go further out, the coral is better. Since it seems a little more shallow here, the fish are closer up and brighter colors since more sunlight (less deep). 

We saw turtles, stingrays, lionfish, and lots of parrot fish.

Smith Reef

In my original post, I mentioned a shortcut to avoid the beach walk from the gravel parking lot by Smith Reef. There is now construction and a new home so this access is no longer an option. The parking lot was sometimes full in February but  there was still street parking at the end of Coconut Road.

We saw several stingrays and turtles, as well as a lobster and many colorful reef fish.

Snorkel Boat Trip



Here is the dock Caicos Adventures uses

In October we booked a half day boat trip (morning) with Caicos Adventures on their 50 foot "Top Gun" boat. We went all the way to West Caicos and their boat was very fast. is There were 3 other couples on the trip and we made 3 stops for snorkeling. It was too rough at the first stop, so we had to find a different place to snorkel. As a result, we think a couple of the snorkel sites were pretty close together. At one of the sites we saw a large nurse shark. We saw lots of fish as well as a lobster.
 
Overall we were very happy with Caicos Adventures and would use them again. After snorkeling they had a good selection of beverages and a variety of wraps. It was the off season and they were not running these trips daily, but we were happy they could accommodate us. In October 2022 we paid $140 per person for the half day trip and currently in 2023 same trip is $150 per person. They would have picked us up from our resort, but we chose to drive ourselves to the dock.

Grace Bay Beach


Travel & Leisure magazine published TripAdvisor voted it best beach in the world in 2022